By: Andrea Pyenson
The hamburger is America’s favorite sandwich. Looked down on in some circles as too common, or unhealthy, ground beef on a bun is nevertheless a mainstay on the menu of any restaurant that serves “American fare” because customers demand it. The exalted French chef Daniel Boulud, who charges $32 for his famous burger at DB Bistro Moderne, in New York (the chopped sirloin burger comes with braised short ribs, foie gras and black truffle), once noted that French people knocked American burgers only because they wish they had thought of them first.
New York-based filmmaker George Motz loves hamburgers so much that he made a documentary film and wrote a book, “Hamburger America,” (www.hamburgeramerica.com) about them. He traversed the country, seeking out spots that served the most delicious and unique burgers – which he defines as fresh ground beef, griddle-cooked and served on some kind of bread – and learned, “Americans are proud of their hamburger tradition.” In Motz’s view, veggie, turkey or any burger not made of beef doesn’t count. “The beauty of the hamburger is it’s perfect. It shouldn’t be messed with,” he declares.
Following are a few noteworthy New England burger spots – a few of which even made it into Motz’s book:
Connecticut
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Ted’s Restaurant 1046 Broad St, Meriden (203) 237-6660
Ted’s Restaurant (www.steamedcheeseburger.com), open since 1959, is a Meriden institution specializing in steamed cheeseburgers ($4). The burgers here are cooked in steam cabinets. Unlike grilling, which seals in fat, this method causes the fat to drip off, but leaves the meat nice and juicy. Blocks of cheddar cheese are also steamed, and spooned onto the cooked meat after it has been placed on a bun. Ted’s also serves plain burgers ($3), but owner Bill Foreman says that the vast majority of customers order theirs with cheese. You can also get extra cheese for $1.75. Foreman, who does not flavor the beef before cooking it, says the steaming method produces a healthier burger with a “better taste all around.”
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Louis’ Lunch 263 Crown Street New Haven, CT (203) 562-5507
Founded in 1895, Louis’ Lunch (www.louislunch.com) is the oldest continually operating hamburger establishment in the U.S. The restaurant also claims to have invented the hamburger. That claim has been disputed, but its bona fides are pretty strong, and its burgers ($4.50), served on toast, are pretty widely acclaimed. The secret, according to fourth-generation owner Jeff Lassen, is the vertical stoves, built in 1898, used to grill the beef patties. With flames on two sides, and a drip pan below, they cook the patties evenly and allow excess fat to drip off. Louis’ also cuts and grinds its meat fresh every day. You can get your burgers with onion, tomato and/or cheese. But forget about condiments. No mustard, ketchup or relish allowed. “We want you to taste and enjoy [your burger], as opposed to covering it up,” Lassen says.
Massachusetts
 by Amy Braga |
The Met Burger Bar 1245 Worcester Street, Natick (508) 651-0003
When she created The Met Burger Bar within The Met Bar & Grill (www.metbarandgrill.com), owner Kathy Trustman set out to “marry the low-brow and common with the sophisticated. It was time for a more sophisticated burger but nobody was doing it,” Trustman says. Chef Todd Weiner designed a vertical, double-sided grill for the burgers, so they are never pressed or flipped, and both sides cook at the same time. The menu includes a range of international-inspired burgers, from the Tokyo (Kobe beef, avocado, sticky soy and Daikon sprouts, $14) to the Paris (brie, fried egg, caramelized onion and truffle mayo, $10) to the Barcelona (Serrano ham, Manchego cheese, olive tapenade, $10). There is also a variety of Continental burgers ($9 each) and a vast make-your-own menu with different burgers (beef, turkey, veggie, grilled chicken), cheeses and other toppings (prices start at $8; topping prices vary).
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UBurger 636 Beacon Street, Boston (617) 536-0448
Imagine your basic fast-food hamburger chain. Now imagine it clean, with fresh sirloin ground in the restaurant every day, cooked when you order it and delivered to you on a soft, buttered roll. That’s UBurger (www.uburgerboston.com), which has become almost a cult favorite since it opened in Kenmore Square in late 2006. You can get your burgers your way – they call it build-your-own ($3.75 for the burger, plus toppings starting at $.25) – or their way. “OurBurgers” include the Cowboy (BBQ sauce, pepper jack cheese, mushrooms, bacon, $4.75), the Yuppie (swiss cheese, mushrooms, bacon ($4.75) and the Stunt Double Cheeseburger (spicy pepper jack cheese, sliced jalapenos, banana pepper rings, $5.95). Since UBurger is practically in Fenway Park’s backyard, and since it is baseball season, look for the Big Papi, UBeckett and Grand Slam on the current menu.
Vermont
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Mister Ups 25 Bakery Lane, Middlebury (802) 388-6724
This 30-year-old neighborhood favorite features a casual menu that is long on burgers. Mister Ups (www.misterupsvt.com) has eight different options (starting at $8.25), from the Rajun’ Cajun to the Cheese it Up’s; and customers can create their own combinations. All cheeseburgers use Vermont’s own Cabot cheese. Three years ago, in the interest of adding a “healthy option,” the restaurant began serving bison burgers ($8.99). Bison meat has 70-90% less fat than beef, with more protein and iron. Veggie burgers ($6.25) are also available, all with the same toppings as hamburgers. George Motz might not approve, but many customers love the variety of choices.
Maine
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Harmon’s Lunch 144 Gray Rd Falmouth (207) 797-9857
At Harmon’s Lunch (www.harmonslunch.com), a sign behind the counter says, "This is not Burger King. You don't get it your way. You take it my way, or you don't get the damn thing." The sign was a gift to owner Peter Wormell, but it’s no joke. Burgers here are served just as they have been since the eatery opened in 1960 – fresh ground meat cooked on a flat-topped griddle, with fried onions, sweet pepper relish and mustard on rolls made by a local bakery. Cheese is optional. “People come back who haven’t been here for 20 years and say, ‘this tastes just like it did last time I was here.’ That’s what you want to hear,” says Wormell.
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Sidebar: Daniel Boulud is far from the only celebrity chef that has a burger on one of his restaurant’s menus. New England’s own Michael Schlow, chef-owner of Radius, Via Matta, Great Bay and Alta Strada, is the creator of the Schlow Burger, featured on Radius’ (www.radiusrestaurant.com) lunch and bar menus as the Radius Signature Burger ($17). Made with ground chuck, Vermont cheddar cheese, crispy onions and horseradish sauce, the burger won the Burger Bash People’s Choice Award at the 2008 South Beach Wine & Food Festival, laying claim to the title, “Best Burger in America.”
